16. SETTING THE CABLES AND DRUMS-Set the LH drum tight against the bearing and tighten the two set screws. Bring the cable up to the drum, checking for a straight run from the bottom fixture with no interference. Set the bottom end of the cable into the slot on the drum. Turn the drum, top toward you and down, and keep the cable firmly in the groove that starts at the slot until the cable is tight enough to strum. Use vise grips on the shaft, wedging their end against the wall or the ceiling to hold the cable, drum and shaft tight.

Put the right hand cable in the RH drum, turning it on the shaft as before to tension the cable , then tighten the set screws. The rolling action of the set screws on this drum lends to tighten the drum further, so "pluck" both cables when you are finished to see if they are about the same tension. If the tension is OK and the door still sets level you may go on to the next step. If not, re-adjust the RH drum until they are close in adjustment.

17. WINDING THE SPRINGS-The holes on the winding end of the spring have been drilled for 1/2" diameter cold rolled steel 15" winding bars (not included). Never use vise grips, pipe wrenches, socket extensions, screwdrivers, rebar, or anything else to wind the springs except the proper winding bars. They should be dressed fully into any of the holes on the spring end. Stand on the ladder off to the side of the springs so that if a bar slips or a casting breaks, the spinning spring won't fling the bar into you. Never stand in front of the springs when winding.

Wind the springs up. It will seem that you are trying to screw the cast end out of the spring, but it only gets tighter. You wind by inserting a bar into a hole on the casting and cranking the spring out and up. Count the turns according to the following guide. While firmly holding the winding bar, turn down the set screws until they contact the shaft, and then 1-1/2 to 2 turns more. Do not touch ANY set screw on a spring without a winding bar firmly in place. Remove the vise grips and wind the other spring the same amount. If the door seems unduly springy or "fast," ease off on the stronger spring as much as one full turn. The door should rise smoothly without flying up or without setting on the floor.

18. TRACK BACK-HANGS-Gently allow the door to open half way, making sure your horizontal tracks are not too wide, or the door will fall out of the tracks. Center the door in the opening and use your hammer to straighten the horizontal tracks by rapping them at each roller, and recheck centering, keeping in mind that the track should rise from 1/2" to 1-1/2" at the rear. Measure the drop from the ceiling and cut the perforated angle accordingly. The drops should be straight and plumb, both front to back and side to side so you will probably have to drill a hole in the track somewhere other than the very end.

Use the 5/16" bolts for the back hangs, and when done put one more bolt through the last hole in the track, pointing inside this time to stop the top roller from rolling out the track should the door be opened too hard.

Mount a diagonal kicker made from perforated angle to the back hangs at a 30 to 45 degree angle to the inside of the track.

A finished ceiling will call for a piece of angle fastened to the hidden joists through the sheet rock, and as before, it is essential that you pre-drill all lag holes to avoid splitting the hidden wood in this critical area. Use a 5/16" x 2-1/2" lag screw when applying angle to sheet rock.

19. FINAL DOOR CHECK-Run the door up and down several times, slowly as well as quickly to test for smoothness and quietness. If you have the poly rollers, don't lubricate the track. If you have the steel rollers, lightly lubricate the track and the roller bearings with an oil (never a grease) every six months.

After the door installation is complete, adjust the stop to the door in the closed position by placing the stop flush against the door and lightly push on the door to make sure the pressure from the stop will not hinder the door's movement. Nail the stop to the jamb with galvanized nails, every 12".

Drill two holes through the face of the door and mount the two grab handles back to back, one inside and one outside. Bolt the strike plate to the track with track bolts. Remove this piece if you later motorize the door. Adjust the clearance of the latch and plate by moving the vertical track in or out at the center track bracket so they engage and disengage smoothly (Refer to Step #10 for location).